Η πρωτεύουσα της Πολωνίας δεν έχει τίποτα να ζηλέψει από άλλες πόλεις της Ευρώπης. Ίσα ίσα νομίζω πώς δεν είναι όσο γνωστή όσο θα έπρεπε. Αναγεννημένη από τις στάχτες της, έχει ένα μοντέρνο πρόσωπο και μια γοητεία που δύσκολα βρίσκεις αλλού. Πλακόστρωτα δρομάκια, κτήρια της σοσιαλιστικής εποχής, παλάτια και μοντέρνοι ουρανοξύστες συνυπάρχουν αρμονικά και αυτές οι αντιθέσεις είναι που κάνουν την πόλη one of a kind, παράλληλα με τη μεγάλη της πολιτιστική κληρονομιά. Πεντακάθαρη, με μεγάλους δρόμους και πεζοδρόμια που θα ζήλευε η Αθήνα, με εργοτάξια που μαρτυρούν συνεχή ανάπτυξη.
Λένε πώς πήρε το όνομά της από δύο εραστές, τον Βαρς και τη Σάβα που αγαπήθηκαν στα χρόνια του Μεσαίωνα. Ιδρύθηκε το 1281, η σύντομη ιστορία της όμως είναι πολυτάραχη. Ρώσοι, Πρώσοι, Αυστριακοί, Γάλλοι και Γερμανοί πέρασαν ως κατακτητές από την πόλη. Είναι πολύ δύσκολο μάλιστα να πιστέψει κανείς πώς στο κοντινό παρελθόν δεν υπήρχε στο χάρτη, καθώς ο αρχηγός των SS Χάινριχ Χίμλερ έδωσε διαταγή τον Ιανουάριο του 1945 να εκτελεστούν όλοι οι κάτοικοι και να ισοπεδωθεί η πόλη. Κατά τη διάρκεια της Γερμανικής Κατοχής (1939-1945) δημιουργήθηκε το εβραϊκό γκέτο, στη συνέχεια σχεδόν 500.000 πολίτες της Βαρσοβίας εβραϊκής καταγωγής εξοντώθηκαν ή εκτοπίστηκαν στα στρατόπεδα συγκέντρωσης, ενώ στην Εξέγερση του 1944 έχασαν τη ζωή τους περί τους 200.000 κατοίκους. Και μετά ήρθε το αυταρχικό και ολοκληρωτικό καθεστώς που επέβαλαν οι Σοβιετικοί. Η ελευθερία και η δημοκρατία στη Βαρσοβία έγινε τελικά το 1989, με την πτώση του Τείχους του Βερολίνου και την κατάρρευση του υπαρκτού σοσιαλισμού.
Όπως καταλαβαίνετε πρόκειται για μια βαθιά ιστορική πόλη και αυτός ήταν ένας από τους λόγους που ήθελα να την επισκεφτώ. Ήθελα να επισκεφτώ την χώρα γενικότερα ήδη από το περσινό μου ταξίδι στο Βερολίνο έτσι ώστε να υπάρχει μια συνέχεια στο μυαλό μου για τις θηριωδίες των Ναζί. Θα μου πείτε έπρεπε τότε να πας στην Κρακοβία για να δεις και τα κοντινά στρατόπεδα συγκέντρωσης. Αυτό υπολόγιζα, αλλά όταν πρωτοείδα φωτογραφίες της Βαρσοβίας, αυτόματα μου έκλεψε την καρδιά.
Γι’αυτό κι εγώ σας ετοίμασα εδώ τί μπορείτε να κάνετε στην πρωτεύουσα της Πολωνίας για να σας κλέψει κι εσάς την καρδιά!!
-Να σηκώσεις το βλέμμα σου ψηλά για να δείς το Παλάτι του Πολιτισμού και Επιστημών!! Στα 230 μέτρα ύψος μπορείς να απολαύσεις από τον τελευταίο όροφο όλη την πόλη πιάτο. Χτίστηκε το 1955 από παραγγελία του Στάλιν και δόθηκε ως δώρο φιλίας της Σοβιετικής Ένωσης στην Πολωνία.
Φιλοξενεί επίσης θέατρα, μουσεία, έναν κινηματογράφο και μια αίθουσα συναυλιών. (Palace of Culture and Science)
-Να κάνεις οπωσδήποτε βόλτα στην Παλιά Πόλη (Stare Miasto)!! Πίστεψέ με, είναι γοητευτικότατη. Είναι η ομορφότερη παλιά πόλη που έχω δει μέχρι στιγμής!! Στην είσοδό της δεσπόζει το Βασιλικό Κάστρο και η μεγάλη Πλατεία του Κάστρου. Θαύμασε τον Καθεδρικό ναό του Αγίου Ιωάννη, χάσου στα ατμοσφαιρικά στενάκια, χάζεψε τα έργα των ζωγράφων στην Πλατεία της Αγοράς με τα υπαίθρια cafes και το διάσημο άγαλμα της προστάτιδας της πόλης, της γοργόνας. Και στο τέλος της δες τα παλιά τείχη και το Barbican που την χωρίζουν από την Νέα Πόλη (Nowe Miasto).
Εδώ σου έχω το δικό μου photo diary: Η Παλιά πόλη της Βαρσοβίας είναι έρωτας με την πρώτη ματιά
-Να αφιερώσεις τουλάχιστον μία ώρα στο Μουσείο Εξέγερσης!! Οι Πολωνοί είναι πολύ περήφανοι για την επανάστασή τους ενάντια στους Ναζί το 1944….αυτή λοιπόν η περηφάνεια πήρε σάρκα και οστά σε ένα μουσείο με εκατοντάδες εκθέματα και αφιερώματα, μαρτυρίες, ντοκουμέντα και διαδραστικές παρουσιάσεις.(Warsaw Rising Museum)
-Nα συνεχίσεις την περιήγησή σου στην Νέα Πόλη (Nowe Miasto)!! Θεωρείται προέκταση της παλιάς πόλης, έχει υπέροχα κτήρια του 17ου και του 18ου αιώνα και σας μεταφέρει πίσω στο χρόνο. Όταν αντικρύσεις και τις παραδοσιακές άμαξες, θα έχεις την αίσθηση ότι βρίσκεσαι σε άλλη εποχή. Στην οδό Freta θα βρείς και το σπίτι που έμενε και η Μαρί Κιουρί, που είναι πια μουσείο. Επίσης, θα δείς και το Μνημείο για την Εξέγερση της Βαρσοβίας.
-Να επισκεφτείς ό,τι έχει απομείνει από το Εβραϊκό Γκέτο!! Το τείχος και κτήρια εκείνης της εποχής αποτίουν από μόνα τους φόρο τιμής για τους ανθρώπους που έζησαν και πέθαναν μέσα σε αυτό. Είναι καθήκον μας να διατηρήσουμε τη μνήμη τους ζωντανή. Τα περισσότερα από αυτά βρίσκονται στις οδούς Zlota, Chlodna και Prozna.
-Να χορτάσεις πράσινο στο πάρκο Lazienki!! Μια πράσινη όαση μέσα στην πόλη, ιδανική για δραστηριότητες, ποδηλατάδα και ρομαντικές βόλτες. Είδαμε και σκιουράκια και παγώνια!!! Μέσα σε αυτό βρίσκεται και το Παλάτι Lazienki και το Μνημείο για τον Σοπέν. Τις Κυριακές του καλοκαιριού, ιδίως τα μεσημέρια, σε ειδικά διαμορφωμένο χώρο του πάρκου, δίνονται συναυλίες με έργα του συνθέτη.
-Να γευτείς την πολωνική κουζίνα!! Εμείς διαλέξαμε δύο πολωνικά εστιατόρια για το φαγητό μας, το C.K. Oberza μέσω του Trip Advisor και το Folk Gospoda ύστερα από σύσταση φίλων μας. Προσωπικά έμεινα αρκετά ευχαριστημένη και από τα δύο.!!
Στο C.K. Oberza δοκιμάσαμε potato pancake(παραδοσιακό πιάτο) και καλαμάκι κοτομπέικον. Το προσωπικό ήταν πολύ φιλικό!! Θυμάμαι χαρακτηριστικά πως όταν ο σερβιτόρος άκουσε πως είμαστε από την Ελλάδα αναφώνησε ”παραλία” και μας είπε πως είχε δουλέψει για λίγο καιρό στη χώρα μας.
Στο Folk Gospoda γευτήκαμε πάπια με νιόκι και ρολό από χοιρινό με σάλτσα μανιταριών, καθώς και πολωνέζικη μπύρα. Στο εστιατόρια αυτό, η διακόσμηση είναι αυθεντική πολωνική και οι σερβιτόρες φορούν παραδοσιακές πολωνικές φορεσιές!!
-Να περπατήσεις την Βασιλική Οδό!! Από τους πιο όμορφους πεζόδρομους της Ευρώπης, έχει μήκος περίπου 4 χλμ. και αποτελείται από τέσσερις επιμέρους δρόμους (Krakowskie Przedmiescie, Ulica Nowy Swiat, Aleje Ujazdowskie, Ulica Belwederska). Με αφετηρία την πλατεία του Κάστρου στην Παλιά Πόλη, ο περίφημος βασιλικός δρόμος της πόλης ένωνε σε παλαιότερες εποχές το Κάστρο με τη θερινή κατοικία των Βασιλέων (παλάτι Lazienski) και το παλάτι Wilanow. Κατά μήκος της βρίσκονται συγκεντρωμένα σχεδόν τα πάντα: το Προεδρικό Μέγαρο, η Ακαδημία Επιστημών, το Πανεπιστήμιο, επιβλητικοί γοτθικοί και μπαρόκ ναοί (ξεχωρίζει ο ναός του Ιερού Σταυρού που φιλοξενεί την καρδιά του Σοπέν κατόπιν επιθυμίας του και ο ναός της Αγίας Άννας), υπέροχα μπαρόκ και νεοκλασικά κτίρια του 18ου και 19ου αιώνα, πολυτελέστατα ξενοδοχεία.
-Να περάσεις στην απέναντι όχθη του ποταμού Βιστούλα και να κάνεις μια βόλτα στην περιοχή της Praga που κρύβει ευχάριστες εκπλήξεις. Περισσότερα στο post μου: Φωτογραφική βόλτα στην περιοχή Praga της Βαρσοβίας
-Να μάθεις πώς ήταν η ζωή υπό το σοσιαλιστικό καθεστώς στο Μουσείο Czar PRL!! Ένα μικρό μουσείο με αντικείμενα καθημερινής ζωής. Η κυρία που ήταν υπεύθυνη αν και δεν μιλούσε ιδιαίτερα αγγλικά ήταν πολύ εξυπηρετική. Το καλύτερο για μένα ήταν όταν έβαλε μουσική στο πικάπ για να έχουμε ολοκληρωμένη αίσθηση της εποχής. Δυσκολευτήκαμε λίγο να το βρούμε, καθώς είναι λίγο κρυμμένο, αλλά με τη βοήθεια ντόπιων πάντα βρίσκεις ό,τι ψάχνεις! (Museum of Life under Communism)
-Να γεμίσεις τα μάτια σου street art!!!
-Να επισκεφτείς το μουσείο αφιερωμένο στον Σοπέν. Υπό τις μελωδίες γνωστών έργων του αγαπημένου πολωνού συνθέτη, ακολούθησε τα βήματά του από τα παιδικά του χρόνια στην Πολωνία έως τον πρόωρο θάνατό του στο Παρίσι μέσω των προσωπικών αντικειμένων του, αλλά και με τη βοήθεια multimedia πληροφοριών. (Chopin Museum)
-Να πάρεις το πρωινό σου στο Croque Madame!! Ένα μικρό κουκλίστικο μαγαζί στην καρδιά της πόλης, στην οδό Nowy Swiat, που σε μεταφέρει στο Παρίσι! Ξέρετε πόσο αγαπώ το Παρίσι, επομένως καταλαβαίνετε…!! Δοκιμάσαμε το ομώνυμο πιάτο, με καφέ και τσάι ο καλός μου αντίστοιχα, και ήταν εξαιρετικό!!
-Να θαυμάσεις συλλογές αιγυπτιακής, ελληνικής και ρωμαϊκής τέχνης, εκθέματα ζωγραφικής από όλη την Ευρώπη αλλά και την Κίνα!! Πού;; Στο Εθνικό Μουσείο!! Πιο γνωστά εκθέματα είναι οι πίνακες του Βενετού ζωγράφου Canaletto. Εμείς ενθουσιαστήκαμε ιδιαίτερα με την συλλογή από την Faras με αριστουργήματα από την χριστιανική περίοδο στη Νουβία της Νότιας Αιγύπτου. (National Museum)
–Να δοκιμάσεις πολωνικά γλυκά και σοκολάτα Wedel!!! Ειδικά το γλυκό wuzetka είναι απίστευτο. Εμείς το γευτήκαμε στο ζαχαροπλαστείο A.Blikle που είχε και πολύ καλή μηλόπιτα οφείλω να πω! Και όμορφο περιβάλλον!
-Να απολαύσεις τον καφέ σου στην αλυσίδα Green Caffè Nero!! Και όχι μόνο….έχει επίσης φοβερά γλυκά αλλά και αλμυρά εδέσματα και πολλές γεύσεις τσαγιού! Κάθε μέρα έπαιρνα από εκεί τον cappuccino μου πριν ξεκινήσουμε την περιήγησή μας! Υπάρχει ένα κατάστημα σχεδόν σε κάθε γωνιά της πόλης και αν αποφασίσετε να καθίσετε, έχει όμορφη ατμόσφαιρα και ωραία μουσική.
Tips:
- Η πόλη περπατιέται πολύ εύκολα, αλλά αν θέλετε να χρησιμοποιήσετε μέσα μαζικής μεταφοράς υπάρχουν δύο γραμμές του μετρό και δεκάδες γραμμές του τραμ. Και είναι πάντα στην ώρα τους! Το εισιτήριο για 20 λεπτά κοστίζει περίπου 1 ευρω (4 περίπου πολωνικά ζλότυ).
- Κάθε Κυριακή σχεδόν όλα τα μουσεία της πόλης έχουν δωρεάν είσοδο.
- Η ιστοσελίδα τουρισμού της πόλης είναι εξαιρετική, έχει να κατεβάσετε σε pdf μπροσούρες για τα πάντα, από την ιστορία της Βαρσοβίας μέχρι και την γαστρονομία. Εμείς δεν είχαμε βρεί ταξιδιωτικό οδηγό και πραγματικά με τις πληροφορίες που δίνει το site, δεν χρειαστήκαμε τίποτα παραπάνω (Warsaw Tourist Portal). Αν προτιμάτε όμως να έχετε φυλλάδια στο χέρι σας, περάστε μια βόλτα από κάποιο Warsaw Tourist Office (το πιο κεντρικό βρίσκεται στο πίσω μέρος του Παλατιού του Πολιτισμού και Επιστημών).
- Αν ταξιδεύετε με πτήσεις της Ryanair και φτάνετε στο αεροδρόμιο Modlin, καλό είναι να κλείσετε απο νωρίς τα εισιτήριά σας για το λεωφορείο που συνδέει το αεροδρόμιο με το κέντρο της πόλης και αντίστροφα. Και πιο φθηνά θα το κλείσετε (η κανονική του τιμή είναι περίπου 8 ευρώ ενώ στην ιστοσελίδα μπορεί να το κλείσετε και με 2) και θα είστε σίγουροι ότι θα βρείτε, δυστυχώς δεν έχει πολλά συχνά δρομολόγια(Modlin Bus) και αναγκαστήκαμε να περιμένουμε μία ώρα για το επόμενο δρομολόγιο!!!!!
Σας αφήνω με την μουσική του αγαπημένου μου Σοπέν από ένα από τα δεκάδες hi-tech παγκάκια της Βασιλικής Οδού!!
Έχεις επισκεφτεί την Βαρσοβία;; Τι σας άρεσε περισσότερο;
Πένυ/Penny In Wanderland
XXX
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19/04/2024 at 00:08ООО «Изосталь»
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