Η Λισαβόνα ήταν για χρόνια το dream destination μου στην Ευρώπη. Στο μυαλό μου ήταν αγαπημένη πόλη από τότε που η Εθνική μας ομάδα ποδοσφαίρου κέρδισε το ευρωπαϊκό πρωτάθλημα το 2004! Την είχα πολύ ψηλά διαβάζοντας για τους μεγάλους εξερευνητές που ξεκίνησαν από την πόλη, για τον χαλαρό τρόπο ζωής των Πορτογάλων που μοιάζει με τον δικό μας, για τα πολύχρωμα πλακάκια!! Αλλά δεν είχα βρει μια τιμή στα αεροπορικά που να με ικανοποιεί, πάντα ήταν ακριβά! Κάποια στιγμή δεν άντεξα (παρακολουθώντας τα κλιπάκια που βάζουν πριν κάθε χώρα που θα τραγουδήσει στον διαγωνισμό της Eurovision πέρσι που γινόταν στην Λισαβόνα) και καπάκι μπήκα να δω αεροπορικά!! Lucky me 98 ευρώ πηγαινέλα με Aegean airlines για Νοέμβρη!!! Τα έκλεισα μέσα σε 10 λεπτά!! Ήμουν έτοιμη να πάω solo αλλά έκλεισε και ο Χ. μαζί μου γιατί ήταν μια πόλη που θέλαμε να πάμε μαζί πολύ καιρό!!
Έφτασε λοιπόν ο Νοέμβρης και πετάξαμε για την πρωτεύουσα της Πορτογαλίας!!! Και πραγματικά ψάχνω ευκαιρία να ξαναπάω σύντομα!!! Την έβαλα στην καρδιά μου δίπλα στην Ρώμη και μέσα στο Top 5 των ευρωπαϊκών πόλεων που αγαπώ τρελά!!
Τί να κάνεις 4 ημέρες στην Λισαβόνα;;
1. Περιπλανήσου στην περιοχή Alfama
Θεωρώ ότι αποτελεί την πιο αυθεντική γειτονιά της πόλης, άλλωστε είναι η περιοχή που γεννήθηκαν τα φημισμένα fados. Την περπάτησα μέρα και το απόγευμα-βράδυ απόλαυσα το ηλιοβασίλεμα στο Miradouro de Santa Luzia. Στην Alfama θα βρεις και τον Καθεδρικό Sé που θα σου θυμίσει την Παναγία των Παρισίων. Κάθε Τρίτη και Σάββατο (από το πρωί μέχρι νωρίς το απόγευμα) μπορείς να ψωνίσεις κάθε λογής vintage κομμάτια στην Feira da Ladra (την λεγόμενη αγορά των ‘κλεφτών’) στο Campo de Santa Clara.
Αν θέλεις να καθίσεις κάπου για καφέ και να τσιμπήσεις, θα σου πρότεινα το Pois Cafe κοντά στον Καθεδρικό.
Για περισσότερες εικόνες από την Alfama δες εδώ το photo diary που έφτιαξα!!
2. Ανέβα στο Elevador de Santa Justa για να απολαύσεις την θέα
Ο Raoul Mensier de Ponsard (όντας μεγάλος θαυμαστής του Eiffel) σχεδίασε το ασανσέρ αυτό που ακόμα και τώρα δεν αρέσει στους περισσότερους κατοίκους της Λισαβόνας. Εγκαινιάστηκε το 1902 και αποτελεί τον πιο γρήγορο τρόπο να πας από την Baixa στο Bairro Alto. Έχε υπόψιν σου ότι μπορεί να πετύχεις ουρές, γιατί υπάρχει το εξής παράδοξο: μπορεί να ανεβάσει 20 άτομα και να κατεβάσει 15.
3. Βόλταρε με το διάσημο τραμ 28
Είναι μία εμπειρία από μόνο του, καθώς είναι παλιό, ξύλινο και κίτρινο (και instagramικό) και περνάει από ένα μεγάλο κομμάτι της πόλης. Μπήκαμε αρκετές φορές και πετύχαμε αρκετό κόσμο κατά την διάρκεια της ημέρας, Θα σου πρότεινα λοιπόν να μπεις από την αφετηρία ή το τέρμα (Campo Ourique ή Martim Moniz). Θα σε βολέψει πολύ να το πάρεις αν θέλεις να πας στην Alfama και θέλεις να αποφύγεις σκαλιά και ανηφόρες. Δες εδώ την διαδρομή του.
4. Να απολαύσεις φανταστική θέα της πόλης από τα πάμπολλα miradouros.
Νομίζω πως πρέπει να ξαναπάω στη Λισαβόνα τουλάχιστον μια φορά μόνο και μόνο για να κάνω ‘miradouro hopping’. Μέχρι στιγμής δεν έχω συναντήσει σε καμία άλλη πόλη τόσες θέες!!! Το αγαπημένο μου miradouro ήταν το Miradouro de Santa Luzia!! Και αγάπησα επίσης το Miradouro das Portas do Sol και το Miradouro de Santo Estêvão (το δεύτερο δεν είχε σχεδόν καθόλου κόσμο κατά το απογευματάκι που πήγα και το ευχαριστήθηκα ιδιαίτερα).
Είχα σημειώσει αλλά δεν πρόλαβα να πάω: Miradouro Graça, Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, Miradouro de Santa Catarina.
5. Να επισκεφτείς το Estadio Da Luz
Δεν υπήρχε περίπτωση να φύγω από τη Λισαβόνα χωρίς να δω από κοντά το στάδιο Da Luz. Όχι δεν είμαι φίλαθλος της Μπενφίκα, απλά είναι το γήπεδο στο οποίο η Ελλάδα στέφθηκε πρωταθλήτρια Ευρώπης στο ποδόσφαιρο το 2004. Έχω γράψει ξεχωριστό αρθράκι για την φανταστική ξενάγηση που είχα στο στάδιο. (Να σε πληροφορήσω ότι απέναντι υπάρχει το εμπορικό κέντρο Colombo το οποίο έχει Primark!)
6. Να χορτάσεις από θαλασσινά
Έτρωγα κάθε μέρα θαλασσινά και δεν τα χόρταινα σου λέω. Καλαμάρια, γαρίδες και φυσικά μπακαλιάρο. Λένε πως στην Πορτογαλία υπάρχουν 365 συνταγές για τον μπακαλιάρο, όσες είναι δηλαδή και οι μέρες του χρόνου. Έχω να σου προτείνω τρία μαγαζάκια για θαλασσινά:
–το As Zebras do Combo στο Bairro Alto, το οποίο και λάτρεψα. Η σερβιτόρα ήταν απίστευτη και πολύ βοηθητική, είχε μόνο locals (που συζητούσαν για τον αγώνα της Μπενφίκα στο Champions League που είχε λήξει λίγο νωρίτερα) και το φαγητό νοστιμότατο. Η paella που πήρα ήταν φανταστική (δεν κατάφερα να την φάω όλη γιατί η μερίδα ήταν πολύ μεγάλη).
–το Bonjardim στη Baixa, το οποίο είναι από τα πιο απλά μαγαζάκια που έχω δει ποτέ και μου θύμισε ελληνική ταβέρνα. Μας πήρε παραγγελία και μας σέρβιρε ο ιδιοκτήτης ο οποίος δεν μιλούσε γρι αγγλικά. Ο τηγανιτός μπακαλιάρος που πήρα ήταν ωραιότατος….μάλιστα μου έκανε εντύπωση που μου τον σέρβιραν με κόκκινη σάλτσα!!!
-το Arco Da Velha στο Bairro Alto, ένα παλαιοπωλείο που έχει μετατραπεί σε εστιατόριο αλλά έχει κρατήσει την αρχική του μορφή. Ναι τρως σε vintage πολυθρόνες και γύρω σου έχει vintage λαμπατέρ, παιδικές κούκλες,γυαλικά, σαν να τρως σε σαλόνι γιαγιάς. Εκεί πρωτοήπια και το πορτογαλικό κρασάκι vinho verde.
7. Περπάτησε την Rua Augusta
Ξεκινάει από το Bairro Alto και καταλήγει στην Αψίδα της Rua Augusta (μπορείς να ανέβεις και πάνω), στην πλατεία Comércio και τον ποταμό Τάγο!! Είναι η οδός που θα χαζέψεις βιτρίνες και θα μπεις να ψωνίσεις σε γνωστές ευρωπαϊκές αλυσίδες, θα θαυμάσεις τα μωσαϊκά πεζοδρόμια και θα κάτσεις σε κάποιο από τα πολυάριθμα καφέ. Το βράδυ μην φοβηθείς με τους διάφορους νεαρούς που θέλουν να σου πουλήσουν μαριχουάνα, δεν είναι επικίνδυνοι, πες ένα ‘no obrigado’ ή ‘no obrigada’ αν είσαι κοπέλα (σημαίνει ‘όχι ευχαριστώ’ και συνέχισε την βόλτα σου.
8. Περπάτησε στις Praça do Comércio και Praça Restauradores
Πρόκειται για τις δυο μεγάλες πλατείες της Λισαβόνας. Η Praça do Comércio θα σε εντυπωσιάσει γιατι είναι δίπλα στον ποταμό Τάγο. Λέγεται και ‘πλατεία του Παλατιού’, καθώς μέχρι το μεγάλο σεισμό του 1755 εκεί θα έβρισκες το Βασιλικό παλάτι. Μάλιστα το main tourist office της πόλης βρίσκεται σ’ένα από τα γύρω κτήρια! Η Praça Restauradores θα σε εντυπωσιάσει με τα ασπρόμαυρα πλακάκια(τα γνωστά και αγαπημένα azulejos) σε κυματοειδή μορφή (δεν θα στο κρύψω με ζάλισε λιγουλάκι το μοτίβο). Το νεοκλασσικό κτήριο που θα σου τραβήξει σίγουρα την ματιά είναι το Εθνικό θέατρο Dona Maria II.
9. Να δοκιμάσεις οπωσδήποτε pasteis de nata
Ή αλλιώς pasteis de Belem. Τα ταρτάκια που δεν θα χορταίνεις να τρως (έτρωγα τουλάχιστον δύο την ημέρα, γιατί 1=κανένα), τραγανή σφολιάτα με γέμιση κρέμας. Αν βάλεις κι από πάνω κανέλλα και ζάχαρη άχνη γίνεται φανταστικό. Τα πιο διάσημα θα τα βρεις στην περιοχή Belem, εμείς δοκιμάσαμε την αλυσίδα Fabrica Lisboα και μας άρεσε πολύ!!! Μπορείς να τα συνδυάσεις και με ένα καφέ bica, τον πορτογαλίκό espresso. Πολλοί μου είχαν προτείνει και το Manteigaria.
10. Να πας για ποτάκι στο Bairro Alto ή στην Pink Street
Στο Bairro Alto θα συναντήσεις πολυάριθμα μπαράκια και όμορφη ατμόσφαιρα. Κατάλαβα ότι το προτιμούν κυρίως φοιτητές γιατί οι τιμές είναι πολύ χαμηλες (ήπιαμε mojito με 4-5 ευρώ). Αξίζει να περάσεις μια βόλτα. Η Pink Street (η Rua Nova do Carvalho στην περιοχή Cais do Sodre) πήρε το όνομά της από το ροζ χρώμα που είναι βαμμένη αλλά και από το γεγονός ότι παλαιότερα ήταν το μέρος με τους περισσότερους οίκους ανοχής στην πόλη (είναι δίπλα στο λιμάνι). Το πιο γνωστό μπαράκι στην οδό αυτή είναι το Pensao Amor το οποίο ήταν οίκος ανοχής. Η πιο κακόφημη γειτονιά της Λισαβόνας πλέον είναι η πιο instagramική!!!
11. Να αφιερώσεις τουλάχιστον μισή μέρα στην περιοχή Belém
Θα πάρεις το τραμ 15 από την Praça do Comércio και θα κατέβεις στην στάση Belém. H περιοχή είναι γεμάτη καταπράσινα πάρκα και μουσεία. Με το πού κατέβεις από το τραμ θα δεις να ξεπροβάλλει ο πύργος της Belém που κατασκευάστηκε τον 16ο αιώνα ως οχυρωματικός πύργος με στόχο την προστασία της Λισαβόνας από επιδρομές μέσω του Τάγου και αποτελεί μνημείο Παγκόσμιας Κληρονομιάς της UNESCO.
Σχεδιασμένο σε σχήμα καραβέλας και ύψος 56 μέτρων, θα δεις το Μνημείο των Ανακαλύψεων. Μην ξεχνάς πως οι Πορτογάλοι πρωτοστάτησαν κατά την διάρκεια της Εποχής των Ανακαλύψεων με μεγάλους θαλασσοπόρους όπως τον Μαγγελάνο, τον Βάσκο Ντα Γκάμα, τον Ντίαζ.
Μην φύγεις από την Belém αν δεν επισκεφτείς το επιβλητικό Μοναστήρι του Αγίου Ιερώνυμου σε στυλ μεσαιωνικής αρχιτεκτονικής Manueline. Άλλο ένα μνημείο Παγκόσμιας Κληρονομιάς της UNESCO που θα σε μαγέψει με τις εντυπωσιακές καμάρες και τις κολώνες. Στην εκκλησία είναι θαμμένος ο Βάσκο Ντα Γκάμα και στα κτήρια στεγάζεται αρχαιολογικό και ναυτικό μουσείο.
12. Να πας για καφέ, ποτό, φαγητό, ψώνια ή και χάζι στο LX Factory
Ένα από τα μέρη που αγάπησα στη Λισαβόνα για το vibe του και θα πήγαινα ξανά και ξανά. Μια παλιά βιομηχανική περιοχή που μεταμορφώθηκε τα τελευταία χρόνια σε ένα από τα πιο in μέρη της πόλης. Εδώ θα βρεις γκαλερί, καφέ-μπαρ, τατουατζίδικα, συναυλιακούς χώρους και μπόλικη street art φυσικά. Ένα από τα πιο πολυφωτογραφημένα βιβλιοπωλεία της Ευρώπης, το Livraria Ler Devagar, βρίσκεται επίσης εδώ. Δίπλα θα αγναντέψεις και την κόκκινη γέφυρα Ponte 25 de abril που θα σου θυμίσει την γέφυρα του Σαν Φρανσίσκο.
13. Μονoήμερη στην Sintra
Υπάρχουν άπειρα πράγματα να κάνεις στην Λισαβόνα αλλά πιστεύω αξίζει να αφιερώσεις μια ημέρα στην πόλη Sintra με τα παλάτια της και τους κήπους. Θα πάρεις το τρένο από τον σταθμό Rossio ο οποίος απ’έξω είναι εντυπωσιακότατος. Έγραψα ξεχωριστό αρθράκι για την μονήμερη εκδρομή στην Sintra εδώ.
Την επόμενη φορά που θα επισκεφτώ τη Λισαβόνα θέλω να:
-να τριγυρίσω σε κάποια από τα μουσεία της, π.χ. το Museu Colecao Berardo, το Museu do Fado, το Museu do Ajulezo, το Museum Gulbenkian
-να περπάτήσω την Avenida da Liberdade
-να κάτσε σε μαγαζάκι και να απολαύσω παράσταση fado
-να δω κι άλλα miradouros
-να περπατήσω το πάρκο Eduardo VII
–να πιώ καφέ στο Cafe A Brasileira στο οποίο ήταν θαμώνας ο Fernando Pessoa
-να επισκεφτώ το Parque das Nações
-να μπω στο σπίτι του Fernando Pessoa
Tips για την Λισαβόνα
-Μου έκανε τρομερά καλή εντύπωση πόσο εύκολα μπορείς να κινηθείς στην πόλη. Μετρό, λεωφορεία και τραμ σε πάνε παντού….ακόμα και στις ανηφοριές της Alfama. Βγάζεις την κάρτα Viva Viagem και γεμίζεις διαδρομές.
-Προτείνω ανεπιφύλακτα να την περπατήσεις όσο περισσότερο μπορείς….άνετα παπούτσια να έχεις μαζί σου και θα είσαι μια χαρά.
-Αν αγοράσεις την Lisboa card έχεις δωρεάν μέσα μαζικής μεταφοράς (και το τραμ 28 μέσα), δωρεάν εισόδους ή εκπτώσεις σε μουσεία και μνημεία και στην Λισαβόνα αλλά και στην Sintra. Πήρα την 72h με 40 ευρώ και προσωπικά με βόλεψε πάρα πολύ.
–Για διαμονή προτείνω τις περιοχές Baixa και Chiado που είναι επίπεδες. Αν δεν σε πειράζουν οι ανηφόρες και οι κατηφόρες στο τράβηγμα βαλίτσας μείνε Alfama ή Bairro Alto.
–Οι Πορτογάλοι εκ πρώτης όψεως φαίνονται κλειστός λαός. Αν μιλήσεις λίγο παραπάνω μαζί τους θα δεις ότι είναι έξω καρδιά.
–Η πόλη είναι πεντακάθαρη.
Εσύ έχεις επισκεφτεί τη Λισαβόνα;; Περιμένω τις εντυπώσεις σου!!
Πένυ/Penny In Wanderland
XXX
160 Σχόλια
Η Λισαβώνα είναι από τις πόλεις που έχω λατρέψει! Συμφωνώ ότι οι άνθρωποι είναι καταπληκτικοί. Ένα από τα καλύτερα μου είναι οι καντίνες κατά μήκος του ποταμού Τάφου κατά μήκος της Μπελέμ. Αραζαμε και πίναμε τα καφεδάκια και τα κρασάκια μας με θέα το ποτάμι. Επίσης φοβερό φαγητό και όλα σε λογικές τιμές! Pasteis de Nata! Αχ! Τι μου θύμησες!!!??
03/10/2019 at 23:44Αχ ωραίο ακούγεται αυτό με τα καφεδάκια και τα κρασάκια!!! Ανυπομονώ να ξαναπάω Πορτογαλία κάποια στιγμή!!!!
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