Αλήθεια εσύ έχεις επισκεφτεί τον Πύργο Βασιλίσσης στο Ίλιον;; Ομολογώ ότι έμαθα γι’αυτόν πριν περίπου ένα χρόνο από μια ανάρτηση στο Facebook που έλεγε ότι γίνονται ξεναγήσεις. Μπήκα να δω περί τίνος πρόκειται και τρελάθηκα όταν είδα φωτογραφίες! Κι από τότε προσπαθούσα να μπω σε μια από αυτές τις ξεναγήσεις οι οποίες κλείνουν πολύυυ γρήγορα! Μέχρι το προηγούμενο Σάββατο που κατάφερα να επισκεφτώ τον Πύργο (έχοντας κλείσει βέβαια θέση περίπου δυο μήνες πριν!!!)
Και βρέθηκα μπροστά σε ένα παραμυθένιο σκηνικό κρυμμένο κάπου στο Ίλιον Αττικής!! Μία καταπράσινη έκταση 250 περίπου στρεμμάτων, μη ορατή από τον κεντρικό δρόμο, μ’ έναν επιβλητικό γοτθικό Πύργο. Πρόκειται για το κτήμα του Πύργου της Βασιλίσσης, ένα σχετικά άγνωστο μνημείο της νεότερης πολιτιστικής κληρονομιάς της Ελλάδας δίπλα ακριβώς από το Πάρκο Τρίτση.
Το ταξίδι μας στο παρελθόν ξεκίνησε με τον εξαιρετικό κύριο Βασίλη Κουτσαβλή ο οποίος μας μίλησε για την ιστορία του Πύργου και του κτήματος και παράλληλα μας έβαλε και λίγο στο κλίμα της εποχής εκείνης, μας μίλησε δηλαδή και για την ιστορία της νεότερης Ελλάδας κατά τη διάρκεια της βασιλείας του Όθωνα και της Αμαλίας μέχρι την έξωσή τους από τη χώρα (1832-1862).
Η Αμαλία αγαπούσε τη γη, τα ζώα και τα φυτά και αγόρασε το κτήμα το 1848 για να δημιουργήσει ένα πρότυπο και σύγχρονο κέντρο γεωργικής και κτηνοτροφικής παραγωγής, αγόρασε και τα διπλανά αγροτεμάχια και έτσι το 1861 το κτήμα είχε μία έκταση 2.500 στρεμμάτων. Είχε προσλάβει ειδικούς αμπελουργούς από τα Μέγαρα ώστε να διαμορφώσουν τον αμπελώνα, έφερε πολλά οικόσιτα ζώα (άλογα, αγελάδες,πρόβατα της ράτσας «μερινό»), φυτά, οπωροφόρα δένδρα, φιστικιές, ελαιόδεντρα, κυπαρίσσια και ένα είδος φοίνικα, τις ουασιγκτόνιες. Στη θέση ενός παλιού πύργου που υπήρχε στο κτήμα έχτισε ένα νέο γοτθικού ρυθμού κατ ‘απομίμηση του πύργου Ηochenschwangau στην Βαυαρία όπου γεννήθηκε ο Όθωνας. Μάλιστα έκανε τα εγκαίνια του Πύργου τον Αύγουστο του 1854, ημέρα γενεθλίων του Λουδοβίκου (του πεθερού της) για να τον τιμήσει καθώς τον αγαπούσε πολύ!
Και ήρθε η ώρα να μπούμε στον Πύργο!! Ο Πύργος Βασιλίσσης αποτελείται από δύο ορόφους. Στο ισόγειο βρίσκεται η μεγάλη αίθουσα υποδοχής και μια περιστροφική σκάλα!! Θα θαμπωθείς επίσης από το φανταστικό διάκοσμο στο ταβάνι!!
Κάπου εκεί αφήσαμε τα παπούτσια μας για να ανέβουμε στον δεύτερο όροφο και την κεντρική αίθουσα του Πύργου και να πατήσουμε με ασφάλεια στο ξύλινο πάτωμα. Και βρεθήκαμε σε ένα περίτεχνης διακόσμησης δωμάτιο σαν αυτά που βλέπεις στα παλάτια της Ευρώπης. Έντονο κυανό χρώμα, εμβλήματα και θυρεοί, μικροέπιπλα, χρυσοποίκιλτος και έντονα χρωματικός σε μπλε και κόκκινες ζώνες διάκοσμος στις πόρτες, φωτιστικά γοτθικού ρυθμού.
(Θα ήθελα να επισημάνω πώς τα έπιπλα που βρίσκονται σήμερα μέσα στον Πύργο είναι ακριβή αντίγραφα των αυθεντικών, καθώς επί γερμανικής κατοχής ο πύργος επιτάχθηκε και τα έπιπλα που υπήρχαν στις αίθουσες καταστράφηκαν. Μόνο ο πολυέλαιος είναι αυθεντικός από τα χρόνια της Αμαλίας.)
Το σκηνικό ήταν παραμυθένιο και δεν ήθελα να φύγω!! Έκανα εικόνα την Αμαλία να πίνει τσάι με τις φίλες της στο χώρο!!
Η ξενάγηση συνεχίστηκε από την κυρία Ελένη Αθανασιάδου στο κυρίως κτήμα με τις ελιές, τις αμυγδαλιές, τις μουριές, αρωματικά φυτά και βότανα (που μπορείς να προμηθευτείς στο πωλητήριο του κτήματος). Είχε και φιστικιές (ήταν το αγαπημένο σνακ της Αμαλίας) αλλά όπως μας είπαν αναγκάστηκαν να τις βγάλουν γιατί είχαν πιάσει παράσιτα από τα δέντρα του παρακείμενου πάρκου Τρίτση….πόσο κρίμα! Βρήκαμε και άλογα!! Ιδιοκτήτες μπορούν να ενοικιάσουν τους στάβλους είτε για φιλοξενία είτε για προπόνηση προκειμένου αυτά να συμμετάσχουν σε αγώνες. Και πραγματικά τα άλογα φαίνονταν καλοταϊσμένα και περιποιημένα….και πολύ φιλικά!! Κάναμε και μια βόλτα στον αμπελώνα!!
Πραγματικά το κτήμα μου φάνηκε τεράστιο αν και μόνο 250 στρέμματα (με νόμο του μεσοπολέμου που απαγόρευε την μεγάλη ακίνητη περιουσία η οικογένεια Σερπιέρη [η οικογένεια στην οποία ανήκει πλέον ιδιωτικά το κτήμα] αναγκάστηκε να παραχωρήσει το μεγαλύτερο μέρος του κτήματος στο Ελληνικό Δημόσιο και να κρατήσει μόνο 250 στρέμματα μέσα στα οποία βρίσκεται σήμερα και ο Πύργος Βασιλίσσης. Η τεράστια έκταση του Κτήματος αποτελεί σήμερα το Πάρκο Περιβαλλοντικής Ευαισθητοποίησης Αντώνης Τρίτσης.)
Η παράδοση παραγωγής εκλεκτών κρασιών συνεχίζεται ακόμη και σήμερα, τα κρασιά πωλούνται στο πωλητήριο του κτήματος και σε επιλεγμένες κάβες στην Αττική. Και είχαμε την ευκαιρία να μπούμε στο διατηρητέο αλλά εξοπλισμένο με σύγχρονα μηχανήματα οινοποιείο-εμφιαλωτήριο και να μάθουμε για την παραγωγή και την εμφιάλωση των κρασιών του κτήματος.
Η ενδιαφέρουσα διαδρομή μας στο κτήμα ολοκληρώθηκε με το ευγενικό προσωπικό να προσφέρει στους ανακατασκευασμένους στάβλους (κατά το παρελθόν φιλοξενούνταν εκεί οι καμηλοπαρδάλεις του κτήματος), μια εξαιρετική οινική εμπειρία. Δοκιμάσαμε δύο λευκά και ένα κόκκινο κρασί από την παραγωγή με τη συνοδεία πολύσπορου ψωμιού, τυριών (το καπνιστό ήταν φανταστικό) και χορτόπιτας (ήταν πολύ γιαμ και έφαγα τέσσερα κομμάτια…χαχα). Παράλληλα η κυρία Ελένη Αθανασιάδου μας έδωσε συμβουλές για το πώς μπορεί να συνδυαστεί το φαγητό με το κατάλληλο κρασί (wine pairing).
Η ξενάγηση διαρκεί 2,5-3 ώρες και κοστίζει 9 ευρώ (με όλα τα παραπάνω μέσα) και την απόλαυσα πραγματικά. Είναι μια βόλτα στη φύση και παράλληλα βλέπεις και ένα μνημείο της νεότερης ελληνικής ιστορίας. Οι ξεναγοί ήταν εξαιρετικοί, ένας από τους λόγους που η μίνι εκδρομή στο Ίλιον αξίζει πραγματικά. Χαλάλι τον χρόνο που χρειάστηκε να βρω θέση για την ξενάγηση (κατάλαβα γιατί κλείνουν γρήγορα).
Πληροφορίες για την επίσκεψη στον Πύργο και τις ξεναγήσεις μπορείς να βρεις εδώ.
Έφυγα με διάφορες σκέψεις από την ξενάγηση.
-Χάρηκα πολύ που ένα μνημείο της νεότερης ελληνικής ιστορίας έχει διατηρηθεί τόσο καλά μέσω ιδιωτικής πρωτοβουλίας. Μάλιστα έμαθα πως ο κύριος Κουτσαβλής (που μας έκανε την ξενάγηση στον Πύργο) είναι και στο Σύλλογο Φίλων Κτήματος Τατοίου και κάνει ξεναγήσεις κι εκεί.
–Πήγα μια βόλτα και στο διπλανό πάρκο Τρίτση κι ενώ έβλεπα κόσμο να βολτάρει με τα παιδάκια του και τα σκυλιά του ένιωσα λύπη και αηδία για το πώς έχει αφεθεί το πάρκο στη μοίρα του. Πριν λίγα χρόνια είχαμε πραγματοποιήσει με το κέντρο που έκανα τότε πρακτική άσκηση μια δράση σ’αυτό και το πάρκο ήταν πεντακάθαρο, χωρίς άσχημα γκραφίτι και σπασμένα παγκάκια, ένας χώρος πρασίνου που χαιρόσουν να περπατάς και μια όαση μέσα στην τσιμεντούπολη.
-Ο μόνος όμορφος πνεύμονας πρασίνου που έχει μείνει ανέγγιχτος και προσεγμένος στην Αθήνα είναι ο Εθνικός Κήπος. Το Πεδίον του Άρεως είχε φτιαχτεί αλλά πλέον δεν μπορείς να πατήσεις ούτε την ημέρα από την βρώμα και τα εξαρτημένα άτομα που κάνουν χρήση μέσα στο χώρο. Και χρειαζόμαστε πράσινους χώρους σαν τον Εθνικό κήπο!!!
Εσύ έχεις επισκεφτεί τον Πύργο Βασιλίσσης;; Περιμένω τις εντυπώσεις σου!!
Πένυ/Penny In Wanderland
XXX
279 Σχόλια
Πένυ μ εντυπωσίασε η ξενάγησή σου στον πύργο της βασίλισσας και ομολογώ πως δεν τον ήξερα. Ήθελα να μου δείξεις περισσότερες φωτογραφίες από το εσωτερικό που με εκέπληξαν τα έντονα χρώματα. Σ ευχαρισυούμε για την ανάρτησή σου που μας έδωσες πληροφορίες για αυτό το μνημείο που υπάρχει στην Αθήνα και ίσως οι περισσότεροι να μην το γνωρίζουμε.
12/12/2018 at 20:48Ευχαριστώ πολύ για τα καλά σας λόγια!! Κι εγώ τώρα τελευταία το έμαθα και πραγματικά αξίζει μια επίσκεψη!! Η αλήθεια είναι ότι είχα μαγευτεί τόσο πολύ που δεν τράβηξα πάρα πάρα πολλές φωτογραφίες!!! 🙁
24/01/2019 at 17:52Πωπω, δεν είχα ιδέα ότι υπάρχει κάτι τέτοιο στην Αττική! Μπράβο τους και μακάρι σιγά σιγά να αρχίσουν να αξιοποιούνται και τα βασιλικά κτήματα. Οσο για το Πάρκο Τρίτση το έχω ακούσει ότι καταρρέει σιγά σιγά. Τι κρίμα! Καλές γιορτές Πένυ μου και ελπίζω να τα πούμε σύντομα! Κάλη
24/12/2018 at 11:57Κι εγώ είχα πρωτοδεί φωτογραφίες και όταν το είδα από κοντά έμεινα με το στόμα ανοιχτό!! Φανταστικός και ο ξεναγός βέβαια!! Μακάρι!! Καλή χρονιά να έχουμε!!! 🙂
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