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Λάρισα: Οδοιπορικό στην πόλη του καφέ και στα κοντινά γραφικά χωριά

 

Η πόλη του καφέ, η πόλη των μουσείων, η πρωτεύουσα του Νομού Λαρίσης, μια πόλη ιδανική για city break αλλά και για ένα long weekend για να την συνδυάσεις με εκδρομές στα κοντινά γραφικά χωριά…ειδικά την περίοδο του Πάσχα.

‘Λάρισα Λάρισα, σε είδα και λαχτάρησα΄θα αναφωνήσεις κι εσύ (όπως κι εγώ έπειτα από τρεις φορές στην πόλη τα τελευταία 2,5 χρόνια)! Γιατί πρέπει να βρεθείς στην πόλη για να την γνωρίσεις, δεν θα την αγαπήσεις με την πρώτη ματιά αλλά αν περπατήσεις στους μεγάλους πεζόδρομους και τα πάρκα και αν κάτσεις για καφεδάκι σε ένα από τα πολυάριθμα καφέ (λέγεται ότι έχει πάνω από 1600) ή για ένα τσίπουρο, θα νιώσεις πόσο ζωντανή είναι μέρα και νύχτα. Και μετά θα ανυπομονείς να την ξαναεπισκεφτείς, όπως έκανα κι εγώ τέλος Μάρτη σε ένα fam trip καλεσμένη από την Περιφέρεια Θεσσαλίας.

 

Δεν θέλω να σε κουράσω με ιστορικά στοιχεία για την Λάρισα. Θα σου πω όμως από πού λένε ότι πήρε το όνομα της. Απλωμένη στις όχθες του ποταμού Πηνειού, έδωσε αφορμή στο θρύλο που λέει ότι ονομάστηκε από την νύμφη Λάρισα, που πνίγηκε στα νερά του ποταμού, καθώς έπαιζε με την μπάλα της. Στην πραγματικότητα, η λέξη «λάρισα» (που σημαίνει λίθινη οχυρωμένη πόλη) αποδόθηκε στην πόλη από τους πρώτους μόνιμους κατοίκους της, τους Πελασγούς, οι οποίοι την όρισαν πρωτεύουσά τους, όταν κυριάρχησαν στην Θεσσαλία.

Πάμε λοιπόν παρέα μια βόλτα στην Λάρισα!!

 

Η βόλτα στην Λάρισα θα σε ενθουσιάσει πιστεύω γιατί δεν θα βαρεθείς να περπατάς στο πεζοδρομημένο κέντρο της με τις πλατείες και τα σιντριβάνια που αποτελούν συχνά πυκνά σημείο συνάντησης για τους ντόπιους. Τολμώ να πω πως είχα την αίσθηση πως περπατούσα σε κάποια μικρή ευρωπαϊκή κωμόπολη. Επίσης είδα αρκετά ποδήλατα, άλλος ένας ωραίος τρόπος να δεις την πόλη.

Θα πέσεις σίγουρα πάνω στο αρχαίο θέατρο το οποίο είναι από μόνο του ένα στολίδι και ζωντανό μνημείο της μακρόχρονης ιστορίας της. Θα ανέβεις στο Λόφο του Φρουρίου που αποτελεί αγαπημένο σημείο για βόλτα, φαγητό και ποτό των Λαρισαίων, καθώς είναι η τοποθεσία όπου βρέθηκαν τα πρώτα σημάδια κατοίκησης της πόλης, με μνημεία από την παλαιοχριστιανική, βυζαντινή αλλά και οθωμανική περίοδο. Από τα σημαντικότερα σωζόμενα μνημεία η σκεπαστή αγορά των Οθωμανών, γνωστή ως Μπεζεστένι. Κι αν θέλεις να χορτάσεις πράσινο,θα πας στον πνεύμονα της πόλης, το πάρκο Αλκαζάρ με τις λιμνούλες και τους χώρους άθλησης και ψυχαγωγίας.

Από μουσεία θα πρότεινα να μην φύγεις από την πόλη αν δεν επισκεφτείς τα εξής δύο: το Διαχρονικό Μουσείο Λάρισας και τον Μύλο του Παππά!

Το Διαχρονικό Μουσείο Λάρισας στον λόφο του Μεζούρλου στεγάζει εκθέματα από ανασκαφές που διενεργήθηκαν κατά τη διάρκεια του 20ου αι. μέχρι σήμερα στους νομούς Λάρισας, Τρικάλων και Καρδίτσας, από παραδόσεις και δωρεές αντικειμένων καθώς και από επαναπατρισμό αρχαιοτήτων. Η βασική αφήγηση της έκθεσης είναι ο θεσσαλικός χώρος διαχρονικά, η θεσμική οργάνωση των κοινωνιών και η πορεία που προηγήθηκε προς την οργάνωση αυτή. Η προσέγγιση αυτής της διαδρομής στον χρόνο και τον χώρο γίνεται μέσα από το τρίπτυχο: κράτος, θεσμοί, εξουσίες. Ομολογώ πώς είναι από τα πιο ιδιαίτερα αρχαιολογικά μουσεία που έχω επισκεφτεί.

Μέχρι τέλη Απρίλη θα βρεις και την περιοδική έκθεση με τίτλο «Η Επιστροφή των Μουσών. Λόγιοι, έμποροι και καλλιτέχνες στη Θεσσαλία τις παραμονές της Επανάστασης του 1821», που αποτελεί αφιέρωμα στα 200 χρόνια από την έναρξη της Ελληνικής Επανάστασης και παρουσιάζει την τέχνη στη Θεσσαλία στο τέλος του 18ου και στις αρχές του 19ου αιώνα.

Για  περισσότερες πληροφορίες τσέκαρε εδώ.

Ο Μύλος του Παππά αποτελεί ένα μουσείο πολιτιστικής κληρονομιάς για την Λάρισα, ένας βιομηχανικός αλευρόμυλος που σήμερα φιλοξενεί πολιτιστικές δραστηριότητες με πρώτο και κύριο το Μουσείο Σιτηρών και Αλεύρων: στη μόνιμη έκθεση παρουσιάζονται διαδραστικά οι φάσεις της τεχνολογικής εξέλιξης του Μύλου και τα στάδια της βιομηχανικής επεξεργασίας των σιτηρών. Στεγάζονται και λειτουργούν επίσης σχολή χορού, εργαστήρια εικαστικών τεχνών, μικρό θέατρο χωρητικότητας 150 ατόμων, η φιλαρμονική του Δήμου, κινηματογραφική λέσχη, κουκλοθέατρο.

Τις μέρες αυτές φιλοξενεί περιοδική έκθεση με κοστούμια του Θεσσαλικού θεάτρου και το αποτέλεσμα είναι μαγικό.

Για καφέ θα σου πρότεινα να πάρεις ένα Mikel στο χέρι (ναί από την γνωστή αλυσίδα που ξεκίνησε από εδώ στην Λάρισα) ή να κάτσεις στο Jaxx, το οποίο μας πρότεινε μια ντόπια κοπέλα. Ή αν σε βγάλει ο δρόμος στον σιδηροδρομικό σταθμό της πόλης, να κάτσεις στο Mikel που δίπλα έχει και ένα μικρό Πάρκο σιδηροδρόμων.

Την επόμενη φορά θέλω να κάτσω σίγουρα στο Las Ramblas (κάθε φορά δεν βρίσκω τραπέζι) και στο Κλίμαξ, το οποίο διαθέτει ταράτσα με φανταστική θέα στο αρχαίο θέατρο και co-working space.

 

Είμαι σίγουρη ότι μετά από τόσο περπάτημα και επισκέψεις στα μουσεία θα έχεις πεινάσει! Δεν υπάρχει περίπτωση να μείνεις νηστικός στην Λάρισα, ίσα ίσα που οι μερίδες στα παρακάτω μαγαζιά που φάγαμε ήταν αρκετά μεγάλες!!

Τα Κίτρινα Γάντια με το φανταστικό φιλέτο κοτόπουλο α λα κρεμ.

 

Οι 12 ώρες στο οποίο ίσως χρειαστεί να κάνεις κράτηση. Μου άρεσαν τα πολλά μεζεδάκια (ειδικά αυτό με το χαλούμι) και το μπιφτέκι που ήταν αρκετά ζουμερό.

Ο Λούκουλος, όνομα και πράγμα, το κάθε πιάτο καλύτερο από το άλλο

Φρούριο για πιο εκλεπτυσμένες γεύσεις και ατμόσφαιρα. Να δοκιμάσετε οπωσδήποτε τα νιόκι.

 

Γραφικά χωριά γύρω από την Λάρισα

Αγιά

Η κωμόπολη Αγιά με τις όμορφες κατοικίες, γνωστή για την παραγωγή μήλων, κερασιών και αχλαδιών. Αξιοθέατο το αρχοντικό του Αλεξούλη που είναι επισκέψιμο με ραντεβού.

Λίγο πιο έξω από την Αγιά, αξίζει να κάνεις μια στάση στην Ιερά Μονή του Αγίου Παντελεήμονα με τον εντυπωσιακό τρούλο και τις σπουδαίες τοιχογραφίες του 16ου αιώνα.

Μεγαλόβρυσο Αγιάς

Να πας για να δεις το ιστορικό σχολείο που έγινε μουσείο. Μάλιστα εκεί θα γίνουν γυρίσματα για μια νέα ελληνική ταινία εποχής.

Κάτσε και στην ταβέρνα Νιβόλιανη για ψητά της ώρας αλλά και για μαγειρευτά…πολύ ιδιαίτερο το αγριογούρουνο. Φανταστικός και ο χαλβάς που κέρασαν στο τέλος.

Μεταξοχώρι Αγιάς

Το Μεταξοχώρι Αγιάς στους πρόποδες του Κισσάβου με τα αρχοντόσπιτα, την γραφική πλατεία και τα τρεχούμενα νερά, γνωστό για την παραγωγή μεταξιού. Λέγεται μάλιστα και ‘χωριό των καλλιτεχνών’, καθώς πολλοί καλλιτέχνες έχουν αγοράσει σπίτια εκεί όπως ο Θανάσης Παπακωνσταντίνου και ο εκλιπών Λουκιανός Κηλαηδόνης. Πραγματικά ένα από τα χωριά που μου έκλεψαν την καρδιά αμέσως.

Ραψάνη

Άλλο ένα μέρος που μου έκλεψε την καρδιά, κυρίως λόγω της γλυκύτητας των κατοίκων του. Μια γραφική κωμόπολη φημισμένη για το κρασί της και την βραβευμένη Δημοτική Βιβλιοθήκη. Μας υποδέχτηκαν πολύ εγκάρδια ο πρόεδρος του χωριού και ο Συνεταιρισμός Γυναικών και μας κέρασαν σαρμαδάκια, κοτόπιτα, μουσταλευριά, γλυκιά πίτα με ρύζι και καρύδι φτιαγμένα από τα χεράκια τους. Ένα μέρος που θα ήθελα να το ξαναδώ!

Πυργετός

Άλλο ένα χωριό που αξίζει να επισκεφτείς και είναι μια γλύκα, καθώς είναι αμφιθεατρικά χτισμένο στους πρόποδες του Ολύμπου. Εδώ δολοφονήθηκε το 1907 από τσιφλικάδες ο Μαρίνος Αντύπας, πρωτοπόρος του Αγροτικού κινήματος στην Θεσσαλία. Ψάξε τον Συνεταιρισμό Γυναικών που φτιάχνει εκπληκτικά πράγματα με ακτινίδιο όπως μαρμελάδα και λικέρ, δοκίμασα το τελευταίο και ουάου! Μας υποδέχτηκαν με τα καλά τους και με κεράσματα πίτες, μαραθοκεφτέδες και πολλά άλλα όπως βλέπετε από τις φωτογραφίες.

Αμπελάκια

Ένα από τα μέρη που ανυπομονούσα πώς και πώς να δω! Ένας παραδοσιακός οικισμός, ένα ιστορικό χωριό που γνώρισε μεγάλη οικονομική άνθηση κατά τους 18ο και 19ο αιώνα λόγω της ανάπτυξης της βιομηχανίας και της εμπορίας βαμβακερών υφασμάτων και κόκκινων νημάτων. Εδώ ιδρύθηκε η ‘Συντροφιά των Αμπελακίων’, ο πρώτος οικονομικός οργανισμός θεμελιωμένος σε συνεταιριστική βάση. Στα Αμπελάκια έγιναν και τα γυρίσματα της ταινίας ‘Παπαφλέσσας’ με τον Δημήτρη Παπαμιχαήλ. Φτάσαμε δυστυχώς βράδυ αλλά και πάλι το χωριό απέπνεε μια ιδιαίτερη γοητεία με τα αρχοντικά του. Το πιο γνωστό και επισκέψιμο είναι το αρχοντικό Σβαρτς με ξυλόγλυπτες οροφές και πλούσιο ζωγραφικό διάκοσμο (ναι στεναχωρέθηκα που προσωρινά ειναι κλειστό για εργασίες και δεν το είδα). Όπως καταλάβατε θα επιστρέψω κάποια στιγμή για να επισκεφτώ τα Αμπελάκια!!

Τύρναβος

Όλοι γνωρίζουμε τον Τύρναβο για το τσίπουρο και το ούζο του. Κάνε λοιπόν μια στάση στο Οινοποιείο Τυρνάβου και για εκλεκτά κρασιά με πιο γνωστό το μοσχάτο μαύρο Τυρνάβου!

Ο δρόμος θα σε βγάλει και στην Ελασσόνα και θα σου πρότεινα να κάνεις μια στάση για φαγητό στο μεζεδοπωλείο Το Σταφύλι!

Τσαριτσάνη

Άλλο ένα ιστορικό χωριό της περιοχής που το αποκαλούσαν Μικρό Παρίσι λόγω της αυτάρκειας του. Εκεί θα δεις την Οικονόμειο σχολή, το μοναδικό πρότυπο γυμνάσιο του κράτους στην επαρχία Ελασσόνας ως το 1943, που λειτουργεί κανονικά ως σχολείο στις μέρες μας. Θα περάσεις από την πλατεία Σοφία Βέμπω για να δεις την προτομή της και θα μπεις σε μία από τις πολλές εκκλησίες…θα σου πρότεινα τον πρώην μητροπολιτικό ναό των Εισοδίων της Θεοτόκου με την ξύλινη στέγη και το τέμπλο φτιαγμένο στην Βιέννη.

Λιβάδι Ολύμπου

Στα σύνορα των νομών Λάρισας και Πιερίας θα βρεις την κωμόπολη Λιβάδι σε υψόμετρο 1180 μέτρων. Οι κάτοικοι του είναι βλαχικής καταγωγής και ακόμα και σήμερα θα τους ακούσεις να μιλούν μεταξύ τους με την βλαχική διάλεκτο. Γενέτειρα του αγωνιστή του 1821 και μέλους της Φιλικής Εταιρείας Γιωργάκη Ολύμπιου. Προσωπικά μου θύμισε και λίγο Αράχωβα, μάλιστα οι ντόπιοι μας είπαν πως το καλοκαίρι έχει πάρα πολύ κόσμο. Πρώτη φορά εδώ δοκίμασα μελιτζανόπιτα από τα χεράκια των γυναικών του Συλλόγου του Λιβαδιού.

 

 

Όπως βλέπεις η Λάρισα και οι γύρω περιοχές έχουν μεγάλο ενδιαφέρον και δεν πρόκειται να βαρεθείς ούτε στιγμή. Θέλεις πόλη και βαβούρα…πας Λάρισα…θες να τριγυρίσεις σε όμορφα χωριουδάκια…έχεις άπειρες επιλογές. Εμείς πήγαμε σε όλα αυτά μέσα σε 3 μέρες αλλά θα σου πρότεινα να αφιερώσεις ένα 5ήμερο για να χαρείς πιο πολύ τις διαδρομές και τα μέρη!!

 

Και στείλε μου ποιό μέρος σου άρεσε περισσότερο!!

 

 

*Ένα μεγάλο ευχαριστώ στην Περιφέρεια Θεσσαλίας που με κάλεσε σ’αυτό το fam trip! Θερμές ευχαριστίες στον Περιφερειάρχη Κώστα Αγοραστό, στον Ιωάννη Μπουτίνα, Θεματικό Αντιπεριφερειάρχη Τουρισμού και Πολιτισμού, στον Βασίλειο Πινακά, Αντιπεριφερειάρχη ΠΕ Λάρισας και στον δήμαρχο Τεμπών Γεώργιο Μανώλη για την αμέριστη βοήθειά τους

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