Όταν έρχεται η συζήτηση στο Μιλάνο, οι απόψεις διίστανται, σε άλλους αρέσει και άλλοι το βρίσκουν μουντό και βιομηχανικό. Όπως κάθε πόλη έχει και αυτό όμως τις ομορφιές του: τον πολιτισμό του, το ποδόσφαιρο και τη μόδα!! Άνθρωποι καλοντυμένοι περπατούν στους καλαίσθητους δρόμους, μιλούν για τα αθλητικά σαν το σημαντικότερο θέμα του κόσμου και απολαμβάνουν το καφεδάκι τους στα αμέτρητα καφέ της πόλης, έτσι κι αλλιώς η έννοια του καφέ είναι συνυφασμένη με την Ιταλία.
Μετά από δυο ταξίδια στο Μιλάνο τα δύο τελευταία χρόνια (την πρώτη φορά με την φίλη μου την Α. το Μάη του 2014 και τη δεύτερη μόνη μου πριν ένα περίπου μήνα) μπορώ να πω ότι το Μιλανάκι το αγάπησα γιατί έχει το δικό του τρόπο να σε συνεπαίρνει. Είναι καθαρό, με φοβερή συγκοινωνία, ευγενικούς ανθρώπους και φυσικά γιατί φιλοξενεί αριστουργήματα της τέχνης. Κλασική Ιταλίδα σε μεθά σε κάθε της γωνιά αυτή η πόλη. Αριστοκρατική πάνω απ’όλα!!
Γιατί λοιπόν να επισκεφτεί κάποιος το Μιλάνο;; Μα φυσικά για όλους τους παρακάτω λόγους!!
-Για το Duomo. Είναι το νούμερο ένα αξιοθέατο της πόλης! Εννοείται θα το επισκεφτείς και θα ανέβεις στην κορυφή για την όμορφη θέα! Εγώ και τις δύο φορές που πήγα στο Μιλάνο δεν κατάφερα δυστυχώς να ανέβω……την επόμενη φορά!!
-Για να θαυμάσεις το αριστούργημα του Leonardo da Vinci, τον ”Μυστικό Δείπνο”, που βρίσκεται μέσα στην εκκλησία Santa Maria delle Grazie. 15 λεπτά δέους!! 15 γιατί μόνο τόσο σου επιτρέπεται να το δεις!!! Αν και θέλεις παραπάνω….εγώ δυσκολεύτηκα πολύ να φύγω!!! Η βασική αφορμή για το ταξίδι μου πριν ένα μήνα!!!! ΠΡΟΣΟΧΗ!!! Χρειάζεται προκράτηση αρκετό καιρό πριν γιατί γίνεται χαμός!! Και καλό είναι να είσαι εκεί τουλάχιστον 20 λεπτά πριν την ώρα που έχεις για να πάρεις το κανονικό σου εισιτήριο, διαφορετικά χάνεις την κράτηση!! Εισιτήριο θα βρείς στην ιστοσελίδα Vivaticket.
-Για τη βόλτα στο Quadrilatero d’Oro για να χαζέψεις τις βιτρίνες των luxury οίκων μόδας. Όλη η πολυτέλεια συγκεντρωμένη σε τέσσερις οδούς.
-Για το Στάδιο San Siro (ή αλλιώς Giuseppe Meazza). Το γήπεδο που φιλοξενεί τους αγώνες δυο μεγάλων ιταλικών ομάδων, της AC Milan και της FC Inter. Κορίτσια, αν πάτε στο Μιλάνο με τον αγαπημένο σας, θα εκτιμήσει πολύ την προθυμία σας να επισκεφτείτε αυτό το ναό του ποδοσφαίρου. Σκεφτείτο το και δεν θα χάσετε!!! Μπορείτε να δείτε το μουσείο των δύο ομάδων με την ιστορία τους και να ξεναγηθείτε στο γήπεδο! Σας έχω ετοιμάσει post για την δικιά μου εμπειρία: Στο Stadio San Siro στο Μιλάνο.
– Για τα κανάλια στην περιοχή του Navigli. Το Μιλάνο έχει και αυτό κανάλια, ένα μάλιστα είναι σχεδιασμένο από τον ίδιο τον Leonardo da Vinci. Από το απόγευμα και μετά, το σημείο αυτό γεμίζει με νέους και νέες που έρχονται να πιούν το aperitivo τους. Διαβάστε εδώ τη δικιά μου βόλτα με παγωτό στο χέρι στις όχθες του Naviglio Grande.
-Για το aperitivo φυσικά!! Μια κλασική μιλανέζικη συνήθεια: Από τις 6 ως τις 9 το απόγευμα μπορείς να πας σε κάποιο καφέ-μπαρ, να παραγγείλεις το ποτάκι σου (Spritz con Aperol βέβαια!!) και να γεμίσεις το πιατάκι σου όσες φορές θέλεις από ένα μπουφέ με όλα τα καλούδια. Tην τελευταία μου φορά στην πόλη διάλεξα δυο μπαράκια: το Pandenus που ήταν κοντά στο ξενοδοχείο μου, και το Caffè della Pusterla.
Pandenus
Caffe della Pusterla
-Για τις Κολώνες του San Lorenzo. Πολύ κοντά στο παραπάνω καφέ-μπαρ μπροστά από την ομώνυμη Βασιλική βρίσκονται οι Colonne di San Lorenzo, 16 ψηλές κολώνες κορινθιακού τύπου, στις οποίες μπορείς να κάτσεις με μπίρα ή κρασί στο χέρι και να χαζέψεις τον κόσμο που περνά.
-Για το Parco Sempione. Μια πράσινη όαση για να περπατήσεις μαζί με τους Μιλανέζους ανάμεσα σε ψηλά δένδρα και μικρά γεφυράκια. Το καλοκαίρι θα δεις πολλούς ντόπιους να κάνουν ηλιοθεραπεία. Ιδανικό για μια Κυριακάτικη βόλτα με καλό καιρό ή και για κάθε φορά που θέλεις να αποφορτιστείς.
-Για να νιώσεις πρίγκιπας ή πριγκίπισσα στο Castello Sforzesco. Μπροστά από το Parco Sempione βρίσκεται αυτό το καλοδιατηρημένο κάστρο που φιλοξενεί και πολλά μικρά μουσεία. Μπορείς να προμηθευτείς ένα εισιτήριο για όλα στην τιμή των 5ευρώ. Περπάτησε ανάμεσα στις πολεμίστρες, τα φρούρια και τους πύργους και μην παραλείψεις να δεις σε ένα από τα μουσεία το ημιτελές έργο Pieta Rondanini του Michelangelo, όταν ο καλλιτέχνης προσπαθούσε με πέντε διαφορετικούς τρόπους να αποδόσει την Αποκαθήλωση. Το τελικό σχέδιο της Pieta βρίσκεται στην Βασιλική του Αγίου Πέτρου στο Βατικανό.
-Για να χαζέψεις τον εκπληκτικό Κεντρικό Σταθμό του Μιλάνου. Και τον Πύργο Pirelli απέναντι.
-Για την διάσημη Σκάλα!! Την Όπερα της πόλης στην οποία έχουν ανέβει πάμπολλα έργα!! Η εικόνα της απ’έξω δεν θα σε ενθουσιάσει πολύ!!! Αλλά αν είσαι τυχερός/ή και βρείς εισιτήριο για παράσταση, θα είναι ανεπανάληπτη εμπειρία!!
-Για να γευτείς το φοβερό παγωτό των Cioccolati Italiani που έχει αρκετά μαγαζάκια μέσα στην πόλη. Σε χωνάκι ή κυπελλάκι, πάρε μια ή περισσότερες από τις yummy γεύσεις και περπάτα. Δεν θα θέλεις να δώσεις κουταλιά. Εγώ έκανα βόλτα στις όχθες του Naviglio Grande απολαμβάνοντας crema bologna και cioccolatto bianco con nocciola.
-Για το risotto alla milanese. Δεν είναι δυνατόν να έρθεις στο Μιλάνο και να μην δοκιμάσεις το πιο χαρακτηριστικό πιάτο.
-Για να πεταχτείς μια μονοήμερη στη λίμνη Como και να ρομαντζάρεις στα χωριουδάκια. Είναι μόνο 30-50 λεπτάκια εκτός του Μιλάνου και πραγματικά αξίζει!! Σου έχω ξεχωριστό post για τη λίμνη Como την οποία και επισκέφτηκα την πρώτη μου φορά στο Μιλάνο με πολλές φωτογραφίες για μια από τις πιο φωτογενείς λίμνες του κόσμου….τσέκαρε εδώ το δικό μου Photodiary από τη λίμνη Como!! Ή και να πας στο κοντινό Bergamo το οποίο θέλω πολύ να επισκεφτώ κάποια στιγμή!!
-Για να θαυμάσεις το αριστούργημα ”Το φιλί” του Hayez και άλλα πανέμορφα έργα τεχνης στην Πινακοθήκη της Brera. Αν αγαπάς την τέχνη τότε δεν πρέπει να παραλείψεις αυτή την Πινακοθήκη που φιλοξενεί πίνακες των Mantegna, Bellini, Canalleto, Pierro della Francesca, Raphael και Caravaggio.
-Για την Πινακοθήκη Ambrosiana. Αν αγαπάς όπως κι εγώ τον Leonardo da Vinci, θα θέλεις σίγουρα να δεις από κοντά τον Codex Atlantico: αναπαραγωγές των σελίδων αυτών των τεράστιων τόμων βρίσκονται σε τραπέζια με γυάλινες επιφάνειες. Και μιας και είσαι εκεί θα χαζέψεις και την Βιβλιοθήκη Ambrosiana αλλά και το σχέδιο του Raphael για την πασίγνωστη ”Σχολή των Αθηνών”. Και θα πεταχτείς και λίγο πιο δίπλα στη Βασιλική του Sant Ambrogio, τον πολιούχο της πόλης, μια από τις παλαιότερες βασιλικές του Μιλάνου (ιδρύθηκε το 379!).
-Για ψώνια στην Via Torino και στην Corso Buenos Aires που έχει ό,τι αλυσίδα βάζεις στο νου σου: Calzedonia, Bershka, Stradivarius κ.α.
-Για να χαθείς στα δρομάκια της πιο μποέμ γειτονιάς του Μιλάνου, την Brera.
-Για να πιεις καφεδάκι στο Gucci Caffe (5 ευρώ μόνο τον πλήρωσα) μέσα στη Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II και να χαζεύεις τους ντόπιους και μη να ψωνίζουν στα μαγαζιά μεγάλων οίκων: Prada, Versace, Luis Vuitton. Εννοείται κι εσύ να κάνεις shopping therapy αν το αντέχει η τσέπη σου. Παράλληλα όμως θα χαζεύεις την εκπληκτική στοά σε στυλ art nouveau με τις εντυπωσιακές τοιχογραφίες στην οροφή.
Όπως βλέπεις δεν είναι και λίγα τα πράγματα που μπορείς να κάνεις στην πρωτεύουσα της μόδας. Αν έχεις δυο μέρες μόνο στην πόλη, θα σου πρότεινα από τα παραπάνω να βάλεις σίγουρα στο πρόγραμμά σου το Duomo, την Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II που είναι και ακριβώς δίπλα, να πας σε κάποια από τις δυο πινακοθήκες και να βολτάρεις στο Castello Sforzesco. Και μην φύγεις χωρίς να δοκιμάσεις την ”τελετουργία” του aperitivo και εννοείται πολύ gelato!!!
Αν έχεις περισσότερες μέρες, εκτός από όλα τα παραπάνω, κάνε μια βόλτα και από το Museo Poldi Pezzoli αν είσαι λάτρης της τέχνης: ένα όμορφο κτήριο, για την ακρίβεια η έπαυλη του Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli, που στεγάζει κάποια σημαντικά έργα τέχνης των Botticelli, Mantegna και Bellini, καθώς και συλλογές από αντικείμενα, όπως ρολόγια, περσικές ταπισερί, πανοπλίες και όπλα. Αν και να πω την αλήθεια προσωπικά μου άρεσε πιο πολύ το κτήριο!!!
Αξιοσημείωτο είναι και το σχετικά καινούριο Museo del Novecento με τέχνη του 20ου αιώνα που στεγάζεται σε ένα φουτουριστικό κτήριο στην Piazza del Duomo. Στον τελευταίο όροφο του κτηρίου μπορείς να απολαύσεις και την εξαιρετική θέα στον καθεδρικό ναό και την πλατεία.
Υ.Γ. Θα σε βολέψει πολύ να αγοράσεις την Milano Card, την τουριστική κάρτα για την πόλη!!! Έχει δωρεάν τα μέσα μαζικής μεταφοράς (μετρό, τραμ, λεωφορεία), δωρεάν κάποια μουσεία, εκπτώσεις σε άλλα, καθώς και εκπτώσεις σε εστιατόρια και καφέ. Για περισσότερες πληροφορίες, τιμές, τρόπο παραλάβής δείτε εδώ. Προσωπικά με βόλεψε πάρα πολύ!!!
Τί άλλο σου αρέσει στο Μιλάνο; Στείλε μου τίς εντυπώσεις σου!!!
Stay tuned!!
Πένυ/Penny In Wanderland
XXX
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